Uttaranchal week 1

After finally getting all our kit together and getting out of Delhi, we have had an eventful week.

Our main goal for this trip is to explore the unpaddled headwaters of the main drainages in Utturanchal. The region is currently undergoing major developments in Hydropower. Not only will many of the rivers be lost for future generations, but also the upheaval to the ancient communities will be devastating.

Utturanchal is in Northern India, just west of Nepal. It is a region of pristine forest clad mountains, and 6000m snow capped peaks.

We began by heading up the Yamuna valley, and straight into a first descent. Due to low water levels at this time of year we managed to spend 2 days paddling the classic steep upper stretch of the Yamuna River between Phoolchatti and Saynachatti.

We have one truck with 6 paddlers, one driver, a dog

and a lot of kit. Here JJ and Ben a squeezed in the back.

Ben Jackson on the First descent of the upper Jamuna River.

JJ narrowly misses a strainer on the Yamuna River.

With expectation high we drove over to the next main drainage to the west, and the headwaters of the Tons River. However after a couple of days spent inspecting the Obra (Supin), we came to the conclusion that at a gradient of 80m/km, and several 200m vertical walled gorges, that at least at these water levels it was best to leave it unrun.

More optimistic about the other main tributary, we hired porters, and hiked with our boats up the Har-ki-dun (upper Tons). However the following day, after only paddling the first 800m, we came to the mouth of a formidable looking gorge, and after failing to walk around it, spent the next 6 and a half hours climbing the 400m out of the main canyon back to the trail, and from there back to the road head.

A porter carrying one of our boats up the Har-ki-Dun River.

Zak and Steve try to make out the river, deep invalley bottom.

Zak Shaw.

Hiking back up to the road on the Har-ki-dun

A local shepherd that joined us round our camp fire.

A local farm boy in the remote village of Jakhol.

Shalabh's truck. We sleep under a shelter built off one side.

JJ and Shalabh cooking up goat stew.

All hurting from these days of hard labour, we spent a well earned day paddling a known stretch of the Rupin River, and are now making our way towards the Bhilangana drainage. We hope to have more luck there, and will keep you posted.