Wednesday, November 14, 2007

Mission 2, Arunachal Pradesh

On the 18th we will set off for another long drive, to get the 1500km on bad roads to Arunachal Pradesh, in the far North East of India. This is a region set aside from the main bulk of India, sandwiched between Bhutan, Bangladesh and China. Arunanchal has only opened up for travelers in the past few years, and with only short term permits available, the area is still largely unexplored. Not much travel information is available about this large province of India, and the Lonley Planet guidebook only dedicates a single page to it.







There is the most concentrated number of rivers anywhere in India in Arunachal Pradesh, and it is believed there is enough Hydro-power potential to power the whole of india. This of course means there are already plans to Dam many of the drainages, so time is short for exploration here.

Our team for this trip will be Sam Hughes (UK), Zak Shaw (NZ), Shalabh Gahaut (India), Mikey Abbot (NZ), Al Ellard (UK) and Andy Phillips (UK).

Uttaranchal mission completed

JJ shows us his North Carolina style by paddling as close to a log jam as possible.
Our team has just arrived in Kathmandu (Nepal), for what is the end of our first leg of the trip.

Since being detained we have managed to cover some good ground and knock of some more classics as we have headed east. This time we put in some extra effort to make friends with the police in the region before hitting the rivers!

We spent some time exploring the Pinda and Sarju drainages, but our main achievments have been to paddle what we believe to be the first descent of the Eastern Dhauli Ganga. This is one of the major tributaries of the Maha Kali, (which forms the border between India and Nepal).

Zak Shaw, Dhauli Ganga

The Dhauli proved intense from the word go, running at aproximately 30 cummecs and a continuous gradient of about 60m/km. Big, fast rapids lead relentlessly into one another, often forcing the team to run large sections of difficult water blind. We managed to complete an 8km section from the road head to the dam, but unfortunately as we were running out of time did not have the possiblity to trek above the road head the explore the upper river.

Ben Jackson, Dhauli Ganga

With only one day remaining we ran a known classic section of the Ghali Ganga (another tributary to the Kali), before making the long 3 day drive to Kathmandu.

We now have 4 days in Nepal to eat as much as we can at the rodeo event, before we start on our second leg of the trip in Arunachal Pradesh.



The road is long as slow progress. A road crew work to clear a landslide.


A local man in Pitthoragh.


Shalabh and Zak try to get some information from the locals on the Pindar.

Dhauli Ganga


JJ, Ghali Ganga


A buzz of activity cooking dinner out of the back of the truck.


The most important part of the trip. Sweet milky tea.


Zak cooks up porrige on one of the tea house's stoves.

Friday, November 2, 2007

Team detained, and face 2 month prison sentence

Our team has just been released after being held in detention by armed guards for the past 24 hours, with little food or water. At one point we had been looking at a drawn out court case, with a possible 2 month prison sentence. Early this morning we managed to ‘negotiate’ our release for $500.


Zak hands over the cash to one of the officials.

Our offense! Kayaking a in the protected area of Nunda Davi, without a permit. This has thrown up a heap of beauracy, and contradictions within the Indian legal system.

In Uttaranchal, no ‘kayak’ permit exists, so it is not possible to be in possession of one. On entering the Nunda Davi region we enquired at the local tourist office, and were told we did not need a permit to enter this area, as we had done in other national parks we have been paddling in. On the way up the Dhauli Ganga drainage, we passed only one check point which was unmanned.

However in the afternoon of 31st October, we were picked up from the river, our equipment confiscated, and were escorted under armed guard to a military base in Joshimat, where we have been held.

One of our offences was for environmental damages caused to a protected biosphere. The irony is that the forestry commission are overseeing dozens of Hydro power projects in the very area they are suposed to be protecting. The environmental impact we have seen from these, by the destruction of natural habitats, displacement of local communities, and destruction of the forest, (which has been cut down to provide fire wood for the migrant work force), is huge in comparison to that of 6 kayakers floating down the river!


The Dhauli Ganga.

We are now back on the road, but with many of the official in the region having been informed about our presence, we are unsure if we will be able to continue exploring this region as hoped.