Uttaranchal week 1

After finally getting all our kit together and getting out of Delhi, we have had an eventful week.

Our main goal for this trip is to explore the unpaddled headwaters of the main drainages in Utturanchal. The region is currently undergoing major developments in Hydropower. Not only will many of the rivers be lost for future generations, but also the upheaval to the ancient communities will be devastating.

Utturanchal is in Northern India, just west of Nepal. It is a region of pristine forest clad mountains, and 6000m snow capped peaks.

We began by heading up the Yamuna valley, and straight into a first descent. Due to low water levels at this time of year we managed to spend 2 days paddling the classic steep upper stretch of the Yamuna River between Phoolchatti and Saynachatti.

We have one truck with 6 paddlers, one driver, a dog

and a lot of kit. Here JJ and Ben a squeezed in the back.

Ben Jackson on the First descent of the upper Jamuna River.

JJ narrowly misses a strainer on the Yamuna River.

With expectation high we drove over to the next main drainage to the west, and the headwaters of the Tons River. However after a couple of days spent inspecting the Obra (Supin), we came to the conclusion that at a gradient of 80m/km, and several 200m vertical walled gorges, that at least at these water levels it was best to leave it unrun.

More optimistic about the other main tributary, we hired porters, and hiked with our boats up the Har-ki-dun (upper Tons). However the following day, after only paddling the first 800m, we came to the mouth of a formidable looking gorge, and after failing to walk around it, spent the next 6 and a half hours climbing the 400m out of the main canyon back to the trail, and from there back to the road head.

A porter carrying one of our boats up the Har-ki-Dun River.

Zak and Steve try to make out the river, deep invalley bottom.

Zak Shaw.

Hiking back up to the road on the Har-ki-dun

A local shepherd that joined us round our camp fire.

A local farm boy in the remote village of Jakhol.

Shalabh's truck. We sleep under a shelter built off one side.

JJ and Shalabh cooking up goat stew.

All hurting from these days of hard labour, we spent a well earned day paddling a known stretch of the Rupin River, and are now making our way towards the Bhilangana drainage. We hope to have more luck there, and will keep you posted.

The Team

This year we have reunited half of our team from last years ‘7 weeks in Tibet’ expedition, (www.athwak.blogspot.com), with the addition of some new members.







Me, Sam Hughes. http://www.paclandphoto.com/














Zak Shaw from New Zealand brings his smooth style to the team. Check out his blog: http://www.passion4adventure.blogspot.com/














Jason ‘JJ’ Shepherd, from South Carolina. JJ’s trademark style is cleaning rapids without a single paddle stroke. He describes himself as “…looking like Mr. Burns when I’m naked!”














Shalabh Gahlaut is a local Indian paddler that I met in Ladakh last year. His incredible knowledge of the region, and Hindi language is proving an invaluable contribution to the team. Much of what we are doing would be impossible without him. His best phrase so far is, “Don’t trust your judgment, trust mine!”. http://www.kayakindia.com/









Ben Jackson is another Kiwi, who has worked as a kayak instructor with Zak in both NZ and California. His good sense of humor and laid back attitude is a great asset to the group dynamics. http://www.jacksonoutdoors.blogspot.com/













Steve Bates, another Brit, met JJ in the states, and decided to join us for the trip. Known as ‘Scuba the wise’, he puts us all to shame with his vast knowledge!














Sangrup, from Ladakh, is our driver. As well as driving through the night on dangerous roads to get us to the rivers, he is doing a stunning job at road support while we paddle.













Finally, our trip leader and head of security. Kaia is a 2 year old street dog from Leh, and is responsible for taking care of our bags in the night.

India 2007. Arrival in Delhi

We have finally managed to track down all our various team members in the chaos that is Delhi. This has proved quite a feat within itself. Between boats going missing, wallets being stolen and the usual attempts to scam money out of travellers.

We are now almost ready to get out of the smog of the city and head to the mountains of Uttaranchal, north of Delhi.

The maps seem to promise a huge amount of rivers, many of which are still unexplored. We will spend the next month exploring this region before crossing over Nepal, to the far north eastern region of India called Arunachal Pradesh.



So far we have managed to avoid Delhi Belly. Here team member Jason 'JJ' Shepherd models a Frig beanie (www.frig.no). We promised Ana that we would get some uniquely 'India' images for her catalogue.

Getting around in Delhi is far more dangerous than any of the rivers we are likely to come across. Tiny rickshaws and tuck-tucks, at times packed with 10 people, battle for position with huge trucks and buses. Right of way goes to the first to use the horn, but this is often overridden by who is the biggest!

While waiting for Zak's boat to show up at the airport, we have made the most of our time by doing some sightseeing in Delhi. However after 1 day of inhaling car fumes, we are all quite keen to get out of town.

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Follow an international team of 6 whitewater kayakers as they embark on a journey of a lifetime. Their challenging attempt to be the first to paddle the length of the PARLUNG TSANGPO river in Tibet takes them deep into the heart of the Himalayas. From there they have to survive an incredible 12 days on the river battling their way through huge whitewater rapids. Friendships, skill and nerves will all be tested to the limit.